Essaouira

La Decouverte
8 bis, rue Houmman el Fatouaki
024 47 31 58
mains 50dh - 80dh

If you are tired of tagines, disappointed by Italian-Moroccan pasta, give La Decouverte a try. A French couple cook in a Moroccan style but with a French twist. Nice atmosphere, good prices. Go for it

La Licorne
26 rue scala
024 47 36 26
mains 160dh

A great place in Essaouira for a romantic dinner, or between friends, and for all of you who like to enjoy Moroccan dishes along with one of the country's finest wine.

Although Essaouira is on the sea, fish are quite expensive. Fishermen sell their catch through the market hall and you can have it cooked at the small stands nearby. Prices are clearly marked by weight on the large pricing board at the end of the fish market stalls, but this seems to make little difference to the chances of being hustled.Sample price: I payed 5 DH for pack of fresh sardins 10 one of them in fish market. Carefully evaluate how much you are being charged. A cheaper option is to buy Harira a spicy soup for 2-5dh or sandwich i.e. at Blue fasade for 10-20dh, walking at the street from fish stands to the medina. There are many reasonable restaurants and cafes on the main streets and squares.Upscale restaurants worth a mention are Taros 2, rue de la Skala Tel: 044 47 64 07 which combines a French-Moroccan restaurant, a gallery and a terrace bar with live local music and "5" rue Youssef el fassi for its elegant ex-pat vibe.

La Triskalla
Rue Touahen (in the Medina)
between 20 and 60dh per meal

Restaurant excellent Vegetarian food and Fish, Creperie, Galerie. Cosy environment in an old Riad, friendly service. Free internet for customers WiFi + PC available.

Patisserie Driss

close to the main square is a great place for cakes and snacks.

Fish Market
Essaouira local market
buy the fish + 25dh for the baking

If you are a fish enthusiast, you cannot miss the food in the market. Buy your fish cheap, shrimps are 50dh/kilo, sardines 5dh/6, etc take it to the small kitchen / restaurant and let them cook it for you. They add salad, olives and bread for 25dh. Really fun, cheap and good food! The food here is NOT cheap - see cautionary tale above